My recent trip home brought me to Connemara in County Galway. It has been a while since I explored this part of the county so I set out primarily to check the best hotels for our US clients in the area.
Here are some of the highlights from my trip to Connemara.
Screebe House
We left Galway City & I was very happy to leave the roundabouts behind me. Even though I learned to drive in Ireland and drive there all the time, I find the roundabouts particularly challenging so was very happy to get out into the wilds of Connemara.My first appointment was Screebe House, an historic sporting lodge set on the shore of Camus Bay within its own mature gardens. The property dates back to 1865 and is located about 40 minutes from Galway City. Wendy met and showed us around and gave us insight into the fascinating history of the 40,000-acre Victorian County House in a beautiful tranquil setting. Closed for the season, we got to see each of the individually designed 10 rooms.
The dining room overlooking Camus Bay and offers spectacular views. The Head Chef Pascal Marinot, uses only the freshest local ingredients with a focus on seafood and in-season organic produce.
Screebe House is Ideal for clients looking for an intimate getaway or private groups looking for exclusive rentals. The property has limited availability but please contact us to book and enhance your stay in this intimate setting full of personality and lore.
Cashel House
Next Stop was Cashel House in Cashel. Google Maps gave up on us and we asked for directions after coming across a dermatologist office literally in the middle of nowhere. The receptionist did confirm that yes we were indeed lost and set us off in the right direction for Cashel along the bog road. We came across this little house -which made me think of how the local people survived out here in the harsh western Climate and in the midst of such wealth and grand estates! Such extreme wealth and extreme poverty in this small area,
We arrived at Cashel House and were met by Brian McEvilly the owner. The house was closed for the season so we got a great private tour of the house. Originally built in 1840, The McEvilly’s opened the doors of Cashel in May 1968. In May 1969 Charles de Gaulle, spent 2 weeks here after losing the election, “licking his wounds” & writing his memoirs and really put Cashel House on the map. Each of the 30 rooms and the main public areas are very tastefully furnished with antiques. The 50 acres gardens were under construction. The head gardener is French, drawn to Cashel House by the “French DE Gaulle Connection”. Brian McEvilly is such an interesting man and quite simply put epitomizes Irish Tourism. He is a hotelier, a story teller & a gardener and extremely passionate about his home place and things local. Cashel House Hotel is also one of the founding members of Ireland’s Blue Book.
This is a must stay for a trip to Connemara – an ideal base from which to enjoy walking, fishing, horse riding & golf. But the host and owner Brian is the “wow” factor of Cashel House, bringing such warmth and energy and a traditional welcome. Ideal for individuals /couples/ small groups looking for a local county experience in a beautiful setting & pet friendly too!
Lough Inagh Lodge Hotel
We arrived at Lough Inagh Lodge Hotel just as the sun was setting, just a short 20-minute drive from Cashel House. This picture was taken from the front door! Built in 1880, it was one of the fishing lodges of Ballynahinch Castle. The 13-bedroom lodge is surrounded by the majestic Mam Turks and spectacular Twelve Bens mountain ranges on all sides. Lough Inagh is a walker and hikers paradise. Owners Marie & Dominique O Connor were the perfect hosts, we had an evening tea and a chat after our tour of the hotel and got the full low down on what to offer guests in the area.
Lough Inagh Lodge is a walkers and hikers paradise. The lodge is also situated along the Western Way which commences in Oughterard and goes to Westport via Leenane. There are many different walking routes to choose from for all different levels of hill walkers which are all situated in the area. There are also walks in the area which are suited to families. This for me is a perfect escape for the mind, body and soul, Again with only 13 rooms availability is limited so please contact us now to book…..
Ballynahinch Castle
Home for the night was Ballynahinch Castle. It was cold and dark when we arrived so the turf fires did wonders for the senses.
The 4-star luxury hotel is set in 700 acres, the original estate was over 200,000 acres. We dined at the Owenmore restaurant that evening and enjoyed some drinks in front of the fire at the fisherman’s pub. (one of the hotels 6 open fires)
The next day we did a tour of the estate. In the 16th Century the area was ruled by the O Flaherty Clan and home to the pirate Queen Grace O’Malley. The original Castle Stronghold can be seen on the Island on Ballynahinch Lake. I have read so much over the years on the Pirate Queen and her history and legend (Morgan Llewelyn’s Book Graina is one of my all-time favorites) so this little part of history alone fascinated me.
Our walking guide Pat gave us a wonderful insight into the rich history, archaeology and ecology that Ballynahinch has to offer.
With 48 rooms, the hotel was the largest we had visited on this trip. While an elegant property, perhaps not as intimate as some of the other hotels. For larger groups and families this is a great base to
explore the Kingdom of Connemara but suggest a minimum of 2 nights stay. The guided tour of the estate is a must for all guests.
Kylemore Abbey.
In the afternoon, we went to Kylemore Abbey. We arrived at the Abbey and met Philip Lee, Head of Hospitality. The winds were so high when we arrived, Philip commented that this was a just a typical day in the West, but other parts of the county would consider this a storm!!
The Abbey’s 150-year-old history is one of romance, tragedy and spirituality and I found the history tour just fascinating, intriguing and engaging. (Tours are every day at 11.30/1 & 3pm). Built as a Castle in 1868, it is now the Abbey and home of the Benedictine uns. The nuns remain in residence and are very much part of the fabric of Kylemore.
The Abbey’s most distinguished guest was King Edward VII who visited in 1903 with Queen Victoria. The group arrived by Royal Yacht at Leenane where they were met by a nine car motorcade which carried them through Connemara……..stark contrast to the poverty the local people endured in the area at that time.
The visitor facilities and dining options at the Abbey are excellent. A history talk of the tour was a must especially given the raging winds! I didn’t get to visit the Gardens on this visit but will be back next time and with more time to spend and enjoy.
We returned to Ballynahinch Castle that evening and dined at the more casual fisherman’s pub and enjoyed some wholesome local produce with friendly and personal service.
Two days is not enough here to capture the true essence of Connemara …………
Interested in Connemara? – contact Katie for the inside story and a personal consultation on your trip to this area.
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